On The Isaan Trail

Part 1

Bangkok (Krung Thep)

The planes just landed and I make it out of the shambolic and lackluster Suvarnabhumi Airport without any of the reported rogue customs entanglements or trickery. My cash is good to go from the ATM and I'm just leaving when I see two smartly dressed farangs hanging around outside. They aren't tourists as they have no baggage and look to be either missionary types or ajarn ankrit(english teachers). Thinking it's time for some advice on where the departure level taxis hang out to get around the dreaded taxi mafia (who lurk at arrivals) I ask them if they know. It's no good though as they either play they don't know what I'm saying or enjoy winding up expats. I'm tired and jet-lagged so set out to find it myself.
I find it after five minutes scouting, it's on the upper floor (2 escalator flights above the arrivals level). Give me Don Muang any day of the week though!
A twenty minute taxi ride to where the ever-benevolent 'Patrician' has been storing my bike. The key fits and a quick check of the tyres, fluids sees all is well. One bump start later and she's good to go.
Lets hit the road! It's good to be back in the land of smiles!

On The Road

It's just gone 0800 hrs and I cut from Highway 7 west to Highway 9 north. I might be the Watch-Rider but I'm not on full-on photographic mode for this one (sorry readers). I've got a tight schedule to keep and I'm nowhere near my home base, also I've heavily loaded the bike which makes start-stop photographing longer and more dangerous.
The roads are quiet and the traffic's light so the goings good, I make good time and reach the intersection with Highway 1. A quick blast north-east and its onto Highway 2 no problems. Fuel prices are up from when I was last in-country, but what you have to spend more on you just cut back on something else, so it's all even and square in the big picture.

Highway 2 is the primary highway for all of Isaan and passes through some of the biggest cities in the north-east. For over three hundred miles until I reach the border town of Nong Khai it's where I'll be riding.
It's time to take a ride on the 'Isaan Trail.'

On The Isaan Trail

Ubon Ratchasima ( Korat)

'The trailblazing in Isaan is in full swing by the time I've reached the first city on the chart. But its rammed with morning traffic, Thailand's oppressive heat is, as usual, bearing down relentlessly and the familiar stench of diesel fumes mixed in with all the other traffic filth is souring my usual fanatical enthusiasm for the road. My visor was down and I was wearing a filter but still some always creeped through. The weather can only get hotter but it's no sweat as long as this bike of mine doesn't give in on me...'
WR's 11th October 2007 - Korat, Thailand

So there I was, fifty miles north-east of my starting point in Bangkok cruising through Nakhon Ratchasima (Korat) wondering what the blazes to expect from the fabled lands of Isaan. Although not quite on the border of 'Isaan' Korat is somewhat higher above the sea-level than the surrounding

Well I'd heard all about Isaan (which makes up north-eastern Thailand) the place years earlier as every expat has from the usual sources, the bars, the gossip, the local media and so on.
'It's a poor place but full of beautiful women!' Exclaimed one love-struck and enthusiastic writer for Farang Magazine.
'Don't go there, the people are very (expletive removed) bad and will try and cheat you!' Some farangs and interestingly some thais also exclaimed.
One thing was for certain, north-eastern and eastern Thailand do have some of the poorest quality land in Thailand, no port for commerce and shipping (Chonburi province excluded) and a majority of the women working in the 'ahem' entertainment industry usually hail from these regions.
I was visiting in October, still low-season for the tourists in Thailand although that won't count for much in Isaan as it's not a tourist destination that can even compete with the likes of Hua Hin, but still I'm expecting it to be quiet.
I roll into Korat, expecting it to be different somehow from a typical provincial city, but I don't feel anything very 'thai' about it other than it's busy, the locals are typical city thais; all on the move and a non-stop pace. It's quite a big city, and situated close-by to the capital so for some it's a handy place to live.
I'm the kind of person that when I get the feeling or 'vibe' a place isn't for me I just move on damn quick and find the next place to explore. Korat doesn't have that feeling so it's back on the bike and off to the next city. To be fair Korat isn't technically even in 'Isaan' so I don't lose sleep over leaving the place behind in a hurry.

Back On The Road...

Next place on the chart is Khon Kaen, it's nearly 200 kilometers northwards from Korat and I know I'll have to put in for the night there. Jet lag is a funny thing for me, I don't get it until I stop doing what I'm doing. As long as I keep on the move I'm usually alright.

I don't travel with a guide to a place when I get there, it spoils the fun of the adventure. I speak (but can't read) a good amount of thai to be able to find my way about Thailand so on I rode wondering what to expect.

The countryside of Thailand really has to experienced from a bikers point of view. I know car touring is all good but being in the open is better. It's fresh and friendly for the most part and Isaan is no exception. By the time I was half-way to Khon Kaen rice paddy after rice paddy, farm after farm became the typical sight. I began to realize that although the country folks are not the richest in the land it must be a rare time when they ever go hungry. The other thing I like about being out in the countryside is the people are so much friendlier. You might be the high and mighty farang to them and riding a big bike they can never afford, but they'll not resent you for it and give a nice friendly smile and wave! Humbling stuff I can tell you.